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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.